01. Do you offer a warranty with the bobbin?

The Ekich Ultimate Bobbin is backed by a one year warranty and 30 days money back guarantee excluding shipping.

02. Can I use Benecchi spools on the bobbin?

You can use all standard plastic factory wound spools with a inner arbor diameter of 7.9 mm (0.31").

   For Benecchi spools, do the following: mark quadrant lines over the four unoccupied chambers on the disc with a pen. Slide the spool over the post, positioning a quadrant line over the drive pin and then press to create an impression. Do this for each quadrant line (four impressions in all). Using a 2.5mm (3/32") drill bit, drill four holes through the disc. This will provide four access points for drive pin engagement & disc removal will not be required.

Then cut a strip of foam that is the full length of the chamber and slightly wider then the depth of a chamber between the spokes. Note that the other side of the spool chambers are closed, so the foam strip will be enclosed in that pocket. Reposition the red disc over the foam such that the disc's pin does not go into the chamber occupied by the foam.
Spools for Gordon Griffiths and Sheer are a bit harder to adapt, but with a small saw it is possible to make a slit in the arbour wall into which a foam strip can be squeezed.

03. If I break the ceramic tube, can it be replaced?


04. Will the rubber ring wear out over time?


05. Why is the bobbin so expensive?

I realize this bobbin may not be for everyone. My goal was simply to design the finest bobbin on the planet. To that end, I spared no cost in choosing the best materials possible (stainless steel, brass and anodized aircraft aluminum), nor was effort spared in achieving the highest tolerances and finishes on CNC machine centers. The result is a highly functional, durable and reliable product. I believe I have succeeded in creating a bobbin that is pure tying joy and I am confident once you have tied with the Ultimate Bobbin, you will also agree.

06. Should I choose a ceramic or stainless steel tube?

Ceramic is a very hard material as well as a good insulator. In the textile industry, ceramic inserts were introduced into bobbin tubes to serve as a thread guide. If you Google "Ceramic Thread Guide", you will find that textile industry threads generally run through guides at aggressive angles and at speeds exceeding 1500m/min. No metal guide can take that amount of friction without becoming grooved. Here, ceramic has the advantage over metal.

   In fly tying, when we wrap under tension - wrapping a thread base on a hook for example - the thread wipes around the lip of the tube creating frictional heat in this localized area. With ceramic being an insulator, heat is absorbed rather than dissipated at this juncture. If your thread is flat, non-waxed nylon composed of very fine filaments, that heat can be high enough to melt some of these filaments. Try it and see. If you then examine the "fray" under high enough magnification, there is a good chance the "frayed" end is curled rather then cut cleanly off. To me, that looks like heat distortion, in other words the thread has melted instead of being cleanly sliced off. In contrast, a polished metal tube is a good conductor that dissipates much if not all of that heat and thus minimizes fraying. With most of the twisted and waxed threads that are 6/0 and larger, fraying due to frictional heat build up is not a problem because the wax protects the filaments.

   Again, this is my opinion only and is based on evidence observed while trying to solve the "fraying" problem of fine threads.

   Today, I exclusively use stainless steel polished tubes for the majority of my tying. I believe that hardened stainless steel hypodermic tubing remains essentially ungrooved in the hands of most tyers. It is possible, however, over time those that tie professionally with abrasive threads can effect a grove in stainless steel polished tubes.

   If you look at the Reviews section of my web site, there is a write up by Ross Purnell of Fly Fisherman Magazine on this very subject.